Fuselage front rotating jig
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The jig bolts on to the engine mounting bolts. |
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Because the fuselage needs to tilt as well as rotate, a swivel is incorporated. A bolt is used to lock the fuselage in the position required. |
Fuselage aft rotating jig
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The upstand design is similar to the front rotating jig. |
Aileron spar drilling jig
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New aileron spars are required, so I designed a drilling jig to get all the holes in the right place. Sample piece of wood shows correct alignment. |
Beadblasting equipment
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Bead blasting those smaller components using a bench-mounted cabinet... |  |
...and doing the fuselage outside with a portable system. (the horizontal ladder supports black plastic sheeting to limit overspray) |
Stabiliser alignment jig
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Made from one long piece of random box section, and one long piece (84") of 5/16 bar welded as one, which is then sawn at the appropriate positions to fit into the stabiliser hinges. This ensures the 5/16 stubs are in line, good and true. |
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The view of the stabiliser jig end-on, being used in anger for the drilling of the stabiliser attach holes. |
Fin alignment jig
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I made a fin alignment jig, to ensure that the fin remains vertical when taughtening the fabric. |
Dummy aft trim pulley
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View showing dummy rig for aft trim pulley, so as to set up the correct operating system of the trim. |
Barium Chromate paste
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I am using Pigeon Poo (my colloquial term for "Duralac" barium chromate paste) for sealing rivets, screws, and any other application where dissimilar metal corrosion may occur, and also between wood and metal components. I will be using it to protect all my steel bolts through wood spars, aluminium, etc. Available from Aeronautical or Nautical suppliers. Excellent stuff. |
Linseed oil injection using syringe
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Injecting linseed oil into the sternpost, using a vetinerary syringe, with the wickedly sharp point removed. |
Fabric work:
Calibrated iron
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Calibration of the iron, using heat-sink compound to ensure good contact between the iron plate & thermometer. |
T-Pins
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Those little T-Pins, available from covering suppliers, are virtually useless straight....so I bent mine (with padded pliers) to get them through the fabric. They leave quite a large hole, so only insert them where a covering tape will later go. |
Edge marker
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I made a little tool to help me mark the finishing tape pencil lines. |
Old credit card
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Applying the tapes is a lot easier using an old credit card to squeegee the pink goo through and provide a smooth finish. |
Misc:
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I keep my little 1/2" glue brushes in a
tall thin sealed glass jar (in my case a soy-sauce bottle) with a little MEK in the
bottom, this keeps the brush from drying out. Photo also shows the ubiquitous Sharpie pen, invaluable for marking out aluminium. But NEVER fabric. |
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I decide to remake the slip rolls I acquired, by making longer rolls. |
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I use wordworking bits to cut large diameter (up to 32mm) holes in aluminium, I relieve the flat cutting face so as to cut a circular disc from the material. |  |
Result |
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All my aluminium work is finished using a Scotchbrite wheel attached to my bench grinder. This finishes off edges very well, smoothing and deburring, Available from good suppliers, or ask your local RV builder where he gets his. Gloster Air Parts if you are in England. |
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I have borrowed an extractor fan from friends at the Club...and modified it to fit inside a box, with 12" diameter inlet and exhaust hoses which connect to circular flanges made on my new set of slip rolls. |
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Here's a nice little stirrer that Aircraft Spruce do for mixing, and for stirring up the mud from the bottom of the can...it gets right underneath the rim (as the bishop said to the actress)... |
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...and the pouring lids are very useful too. |
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Skarsten scraper...for removing old varnish from spars. |
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Slip rolls with longer rolls. |
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Remember that mesh? Spraying small parts over a mesh stops them blowing away. |