My Taylorcraft restoration project,  G-BREY
by Robert Lees


Gear legs

Search this Restoration page for: Use <ALT+S> for next entry. 
This only searches this page! For other pages, use the "Search" feature in the left hand nav bar or use the page search function for that page.


drift-control-bushings1.jpg (53875 bytes) drift-control-bushings2.jpg (63382 bytes) The tail control surface bushings are driven out using a drift.  The same drift will safely insert the new ones.
trim_mech.jpg (42615 bytes) Trim mechanism, ready for disassembly
elev-alignment.jpg (60714 bytes) Andy assists with the set-up and alignment of the elevators.  All tubes and ribs were bent, so after straightening, the horn bolt holes will be redrilled.
trim-bellcrank1.jpg (33122 bytes) During this process, the trim bellcrank is reworked (see elevator trim system in original condition).  The two extreme holes have been punched and then reamed back to correct size (thanks to Forrest for the tip).  The existing central boss containing the pivot hole is constructed using two reinforcing plates welded either side of the main plate.   In mine, punching wouldn't work because of the small gap between the plates, so I cut the whole thing off and made a 1" diameter 3/16" thick button to weld in.   The faces were even precision ground, but with it to be welded in, this was probably overkill!  The photo shows the as-yet-not-welded button, and the bellcrank sits on a photocopy so that I drill the hole in the right place!
trim-bellcrank2.jpg (27578 bytes) And here it is welded in, I have yet to drill and ream the 3/16" diameter hole.
Have you seen my new bronze trim screw and stainless barrel (on the right)? Thanks, David, for your excellent machining skills.
All these changes and new parts and re-sizing of holes (including those on the actuating arms) gets rid of every ounce of trim tab slop!
NewTrimBarrel2.jpg (34589 bytes)

elevator-trimtab-cutout-correct4.jpg (28850 bytes) The cut-out for the pitch trim tab in the left elevator was always out of kilter...the trim tab stuck out about 3/4" from the trailing edge of the elevator, and the left elevator was a different size& shape to the right...
elevator-trimtab-cutout-correct1.jpg (80728 bytes) elevator-trimtab-cutout-correct2.jpg (74445 bytes) elevator-trimtab-cutout-correct3.jpg (48389 bytes) ...and required the repair of another previous repair to put right.  This necessitated moving the trailing edge tube 3/4 inch aft so that the line of the trailing edge matched the aft line of the trim tab.  My finished repairs are untidy, but only because of the attempts by persons unknown years ago to do a bodge job.  Should look alright under fabric.  At least it is structurally OK.
spraying-parts7.jpg (58275 bytes) The two elevators and a rudder hang up to dry.   The white epoxy primer was tinted with a little bit of black, to make grey, so that on those items requiring a top coat in white, I can see where the paint has been applied...
spraying-parts8.jpg (32929 bytes) ...and those bits that will not be hidden by fabric I have top-coated.  As well as the hinge points, the rudder horn on the rudder gas also been top-coated.

elev-fabric1.jpg (76811 bytes) A small aluminium fairing (under the small fabric patch) is used to lift the fabric slightly adjacent to the trim tab system, so as to increase the clearance between the mechanism and the fabric.
elev-fabric5.jpg (30870 bytes) Inspection rings are glued (and later covered with a doily) where access will be required for maintenance & lubrication of the trim bellcrank.  The black masking on the trim actuating arm will be removed after spraying.
elev-fabric2.jpg (38486 bytes) elev-fabric3.jpg (44016 bytes) elev-fabric4.jpg (43304 bytes) All the reinforcing tapes along the spines of all the control surfaces were prepared and fixed in accordance with these three photos.   A small application of pink goo prevents the cut-outs from unravelling.


rudder-fabric1.jpg (25336 bytes) rudder-fabric2.jpg (38297 bytes) I am using Light bias tape for the curved portions.  A pencil line is drawn down the spine of both the rudder and the tape, and then the tape is attached only along the spine, with a little tension to start the laying of the tape flat on each side.
After this thin line is dry, each side can then be laid flat with the application of the Poly-Brush.  No further heat shrinking required.
rudder-fabric3.jpg (24208 bytes) Here is the finished result...not too much "shrinking" of the tape because I did not pull too much on the tape for the shape.  The thin weave of the Light tape lays flat on the sides nicely.


spraying-parts3.jpg (100983 bytes) Stabiliser etch primed after blasting......and then epoxy primed. spraying-parts4.jpg (96764 bytes) NOTE:  you must provide a mechanical key (by sanding) to the etch prime if overcoating with the epoxy more than 12 hours later.
stab-fit4.jpg (45882 bytes) But what's this?  My saucepan holder is back in the kitchen... stab-fit5.jpg (48484 bytes) fact I am drilling the holes for mounting the stabilisers to the fuselage stubs (which were welded up a long time ago because they were so out of shape.  I need to do this now before spraying of the fuselage starts.
StabAttach1.jpg (43881 bytes) StabAttach2.jpg (35318 bytes) The two pictures here show the original holes that I welded up due to elongation.
stab-fit6.jpg (34024 bytes) I use the stabiliser jig that I made some time ago, to ensure that the elevator hinge line is true.  The top wires take the weight. stab-fit7.jpg (35168 bytes) After lining up the stabiliser using the jig, and by levelling the fuselage fore-and-aft as well as laterally, and by taking measurements from the top and bottom of the fin to the stabiliser tips, I can be confident of correct alignment to drill the mounting holes.  These are drilled to size in small increments before using a reamer to AN3 size.  I am using cling film to keep drilling oil off the fabric.
stab-fit8.jpg (43506 bytes) Here's the finished product...holes reamed to 3/16".

stab-fabric1.jpg (30768 bytes) The first side gets covered (I don't like the "clam-shell" approach, I'd rather do each piece individually). stab-fabric2.jpg (44655 bytes) Notice how far round the tube the fabric is glued.
stab-fabric3.jpg (46244 bytes) The curved edge is formed using a 250F iron whilst pulling the fabric to shape. stab-fabric4.jpg (29426 bytes) The fabric conforms to the bow, ready to be trimmed then glued... stab-fabric5.jpg (22638 bytes) ...and after pink goo-ing, here is the result.
stab-fabric6.jpg (52175 bytes) Marking out where the stitches and trim tapes will go.  I will be using 4" spacing for the stitches... stab-fabric7.jpg (41385 bytes) ...and the fabric is stitched on.
stab-fabric9.jpg (42834 bytes) After taping, smoothing and applying the last brush-coat of pink goo, the finished stabilisers are ready for spraying.
stab-fabric10.jpg (36171 bytes) All my drain grommets are the aluminium type.


tailfeathers1.jpg (52857 bytes) While the wings and fuselage are away for rigging (and my garage is empty) I take the opportunity of the extra space to spray up the tailfeathers.... 
tailfeathers2.jpg (36430 bytes) ...and after the white for the stabilisers, I need to revisit the fuselage... tailfeathers3.jpg (57576 bytes) get the red trim aligned with the fin trim lines.

Gear Legs

spraying-parts6.jpg (23823 bytes) The fabric support wire was bowed, but was straightened by cutting one end and re-welding.
gear2.jpg (38215 bytes) gear3.jpg (38171 bytes) The gear is temporarily put on to ensure that there is no interference with my fabric, and to position the gear bumpers for screwing on.
Note in the left hand photo that the exposed areas have been gloss-coated in white.
oiling1.jpg (24196 bytes) oiling2.jpg (33410 bytes) The undercarriage, stabilisers, elevators and rudder, after the paint has cured, are internally sealed.  A messy but necessary task.  Note again the gloss top coat.
The left photo shows the reinstallation of corks to seal the stabilisers, well, any old excuse to have a bottle of the red!
gear-fabric4.jpg (31956 bytes) gear-fabric3.jpg (65108 bytes) Undercarriage is covered.  The only matters of note here are that the fabric for the "inside" of the gear goes under the wire...
gear-fabric1.jpg (32529 bytes) gear-fabric2.jpg (63219 bytes) ...and I use a pinch stitch to taughten the fabric between the veesThis will stop the paint cracking down the vertical legs due to drumming from the propeller slipstream. There is about a 3/4" gap between the two fabric surfaces.

I have not bothered to cover the upper surface that you see under the weight where you can. Home

Fuselage structural work
Fuselage Fabric
Wing Structural work
Wing Fabric
Tailfeathers & Gear Legs
Doors Control Column & Panel
Final Assembly

Other restoration photos
Tools used